I am safely ensconced in sunny southern California (leaving poor Suzanne in Maine with a storm coming that is threatening 24 or more inches of snow…for this I shall no doubt pay). Flew Virgin America (far and away the best way to cross the country). Landed safely and let Uber shoot me from LAX to Santa Monica (I truly love Uber, especially in SF and LA (not good cab cities, otherwise)). I used airbnb to find places to stay in Santa Monica and SanFran. Thus far, I’m wildly pleased with it. For far less than area hotels, I’m in a lovely one bedroom ‘beach cottage’, effectively on the beach and 2 blocks to the hall (and my place in SanFran is owned by a classmate of Suzanne’s…the “social filter” on airbnb is *really* very cool). No doubt there is a bit more of a dice roll…but thus far, I could not be more pleased with the results.

As an added bonus, Cha Cha Chicken is just around the corner. Beach front lodging, great (cheap) Caribbean food nearby, and a book fair. Shaping up to be a great weekend. Have been relatively productive thus far. Deleted nearly 10K emails on the flight, had some good meetings, visited with one of my most favorite humans. Tomorrow is Set Up Day (more interesting images tomorrow. Fingers crossed for the show…

 

Quick post and pictures today. We started the day with a wonderful tour the the Bodleian Library given to us by Clive Hurst (Head of Rare Books). It is a remarkable place in so many ways. Many thanks to Clive for the tour and Richard for arranging it. It was one of the highpoints of the trip. Captions below try to hit the highlights…

We puttered about downtown Oxford a bit (presents for boys and girls) and had a lovely pub lunch. Best of all, I checked in at the White Horse to see about he wild game pie. I was told that they had been successful in the morning hunt and that while the pie would not be on the menu again until tomorrow, the first batch would be out of the ovens at 8pm and the chef had agreed to let me have a serving if I came in at 8:15. We have reserved the “special table” and I, for one, am quite excited.

 

Nice breakfast at the inn followed by an early arrival at the hall so I’d have some time to visit and kibitz with people. There is some truly exceptional material on the floor. The fair opened with crowds every bit as numerous and excited as Saturday…and a lot of young people as well…asking good, serious questions. I lined up some wonderful new material, met a bunch of interesting humans, and generally had a great day. I even managed to see a good book…who knew…

The awards were announced in the afternoon. I shot a video of it and will post it later, but appear to be having an issue re getting the connection to the laptop to function. I’m very pleased to say that Russell Maret won one of the award (?Best Typographic Design?  The winner of best illustration has done a stunning (and lovely) little Jekyll and Hyde. Barbarian Press also won. More on all of this when I’ve the ability to post wee biographies.

Great dinner at the White Horse…my only disappointed is that I was dying to try their wild game pie (venison, rabbit, pigeon, wood duck, boar, etc) but it was sold out. They will not have it tomorrow as Tuesdays are the day that the owner goes out and shoots the game (this is only served during hunting season). The very nice waitress did give me a voucher for a free meal <laughing>. I ‘settled’ for the best steak and ale pie I’ve ever had.

Touring the Bodleian Library tomorrow and some other adventures. Must sleep….

 

Today was a travel and explore day. We left London in mid-morning and caught the widely convenient Oxford Tube at Victoria Station. I have no idea how it worked out, but we ended up with the front 4 seats on the second level. That and free wifi made it a pretty great way to get from London to Oxford.

We checked into our inn, the Bath Place Hotel…a cluster of 17th century cottages that back up on the old city wall. Jane Burden was born in one of these houses (I am saying my room unless and until I learn otherwise)…Dorothy Sayers lived here too. It would be harder to be closer to the Bodleian. The Turf Tavern (on site) is said to be the oldest at Oxford. Overall, just a very cool place to stay in a remarkable city.

We spent the afternoon poking around Oxford and had fun looking through the Bodleian Library’s “Treasures” exhibit. We met some of mom and dad’s Oslerian friends for dinner at the Ashmolean Museum’s new rooftop dining room (the first in Oxford, we’re told). I had a great meal (hare, poached pear, etc). Back to the hotel to collapse. Setup begins at 730am.

 

We had a very nice awards event this evening  for the 2011 National Collegiate Book Collecting Contest. The winners are:

First Prize: Mitch Fraas, Duke University, Anglo-American Legal Printing 1702 to the Present

Second Prize: Maggie Murray, Johns Hopkins, Literature of the Little Review: In Which Margaret Anderson Enters an Antiquarian Bookstore

Third Prize: Sarah McCormick, University of California-Riverside, Desert Dreams: The History of California’s Coachella Valley

Essay Prize: Emily Brodman, Stanford University, Sourcing the Sanctuary Movement

[N.B. Links to their essays can be found at the 'winner' page.]

Great dinner with Mark D at Zola. A wonderful evening.

 

I spent the majority of the day touring several vineyards in the Willamette Valley of OR. I was led about by Jason Brumley (who spends his time at Cana’s Feast Winery while waiting for his (and another’s) vines to bear fruit). The countryside was beautiful. We had a touch of light rain, more than one rainbow, and much wine. Harvest is being complicated as the weather is not cooperating…everyone is a little tense…but it appears they will start picking in earnest toward the end of the week.

It really was great fun. It reminded me of going on tours of special collections libraries *with* other special collections librarians…as a general rule, you get to see better, cooler, more interesting things. Touring vineyards with a wine geek and grower is similar. As a result, I got to see processing rooms, talk about dirt, and eat a lot of grapes.

 

Apr 302011
 

Quick post, many pictures. I took the day for books, food, and a few sights. I started the day at Shakespeare & Co. A lovely young bookwoman from Nova Scotia was nice enough to open the side room for me (apparently generally closed on the weekends). This was especially nice as just before I was going to go, I found a full run of seven Seven. After this, I made my way back the Louvre with alternating stops in bookshops and culinary delights.

The afternoon adventures started with a truly wonderful lunch at Mariage Frères. Every element was good…but the tea infused orange, carrot, and sweet pepper gazpacho has moved the bar shaker which all others will be measured (and, I expect, fall short). I met in the afternoon with client who came from Italy to visit (and send love to CF). And then a lovely evening with Didier and his family. The food, drink, and company could not have been better.

Back to the fair and a bit of ‘other’ shopping tomorrow. I’m going to knock myself out and sleep tonight. [sorry re the lack of captions on the images, I can't seem to make them work on the iPad...they will be updated]

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I’m safely back in Maine, unpacked, and should be doing my book fair follow-up–but wanted to get this post up while things are relatively fresh (and as I promised to get some of these images up as soon as I was east). In brief: it was a really great trip. The selling was strong (our best CA adventure to date), the buying was strong (picked up some outstanding material in a number of areas…most of which I hope will finds new homes during the NYC fair in April), and I had a great time catching up with friends (who all live too far away) and meeting new humans.

Pasadena was, as previously mentioned, a great “new” show. There has not been a ‘shadow show’ to the San Fran ABAA fair in a number of years and it was great to have it return (when you are shipping 500 pounds of books across the country, two shows in two weekends is pleasingly efficient). Better yet, the show was at the same venue where next year’s LA ABAA Book Fair will be held. While it is nice to allow dealers to get a sense of the new location, the real value is in letting those in SoCal get the venue on their radar screens. If the turnout for this show is any indication, next year’s event should be outstanding. We had steady crowds for both days…and interested & buying crowds at that. Lovely. This leg of the trip was made extra-special-fun as I stayed with Brad and Jen (The Book Shop) and their two ridgebacks. Don’t miss their shop if/when you are traveling through SoCal. They were wonderful (as always) [now I just need to coax them to the east coast to reciprocate]. The only miss was that Xeni and I failed to find time to meet (though the reason will, I hope, turn out smashingly well…we shall see)-she did, however, make my mom very happy.

I headed to the LAX at 3am to catch a flight to SFO. I had a lovely nap on the plane, having paid the $20 to upgrade to First Class (I checked two bags, which would have cost $50, so the FC upgrade (and free bags) had an incremental cost of $20. Woot!). BART delivered me to Berkeley in time for the first session at CODEX.  The presentations were generally very good and interesting (though a handful of speakers did not seem comfortable speaking before crowds). The book fair was absolutely amazing. I caught up with old friends and, better still, met a number of remarkable young fine press(wo)men.

I was especially pleased to meet Didier Mutel. I have had a few people tell over the past year or so that I really needed to meet him for one reason or another and I’m pleased to say that they were so very right. A brilliant, young(ish…as in my age) printer, Didier has done some remarkable work and I can not wait to see what else will emerge from the press. His work runs the gamut from extremely fine, delicate work to the brilliantly [and quickly] executed My Way [part of Didier's Acid Brut project]. This last, I think, is a great way to de-mystify “fine press” printing for new/young collectors. Each of the 10 abstract prints in the collection go from polished copper plate to first print in the 3 minutes and 56 seconds it takes Sid Vicious to sing My Way (via fire, explosives, and acid):

CODEX finished Wed just in time for Thur.’s set-up in SanFran for the “Largest Book Fair in the World”…and it really is. Drop off went smoothly (and in my absence, as I was cab-bound on the Bay Bridge-thanks again to Brad, Kent, and Josh who made the LA-SF overland journey). Setup started at 12 noon and ran until 7pm…and again Fri. from 8am until the opening at 3pm–this was good, as I needed far more of this time than I rationally should have required. In my defense, I was setting up alone. Admittedly, it would have taken me about as long with assistance. Pathetic, really.

For those who have not attended this fair, it is held in an old railway terminal, about 3-4 times longer than it is wide and we fill the entire block-long length. Even if you attend all three days, you have to be a bit selective in who  you visit. You can almost suffer bibliophilic overload. We had a nice, central location and opened up two 15 foot booths into a very inviting 30 foot booth (with lots of area to flow in and out and-more importantly-not let people feel trapped). We shared the space with Sunday and Josh (B&B Rare Books) and Matt (Raptis Rare Books) and were across the aisle from the ever-covet-worthy Bill Reese. The fair had steady and engaged crowds all three day and the majority of people seemed really pleased with both the buying and selling. Personally, we had our best SF show (admittedly, of a small number-all post crash) and bought some great material, too (special thanks to Adam and Kate (Division Leap)). Simply put, it was a great fair.

The food, throughout, was amazing and shared with many people of whom I’m extremely fond. It is hard to have a bad time under such circumstances. Especially nice meals were had at Vanessa’s Bistro, Chez Panisse, Zuni Cafe, and Fang. Somehow I even managed to loose a few pounds…don’t ask, I’ve no idea. Now to continue the downward spiral until the NY ABAA fair in April. I’ll leave you with a smattering of images from the final days of the trip. Enjoy.

 

Well, I woke this morning at 2:30am to catch the 3:15 bus down to Logan. The trip started well. The movie on the bus was quite good (City Island) and I love the direct to Logan…very slick. I arrived a bit early for the flight, checked in effortlessly and breezed through VirginAmerica’s security with no wait at all. They have their own gate at Logan…and thus their own TSA screening…for one gate. This alone would be worth paying a premium, these days…

I got lucky flying out. I was only able to reserve a middle seat on the BOS to LAX leg. Between my svelte frame and my broken femur, a cross country flight wedged between two strangers did not…er…fill me with joy. A very nice agent managed to put me on the aisle…a real life saver. We apparently had some winds in our favor as we arrived at LAX a HOUR early. It was raining heavily…see the picture below. The flight to Seattle was smooth and uneventful.

The text under the cockpit window reads "YouTube Air". Nice. Big tube. With you. In the Air.

I had fun in the van from the airport to the hotel. There were five of us in the van, it turned out that 3 had been in Camden, ME in the last couple months. Very strange, we all thought. The hotel is a block and a half from the venue. The room is nice. The coffee good. All my cases are here (the hotel received them all, a very nice service). All that was left was to find something good to eat…

I failed in my first intent (Greek)…this turned out to be lucky, as I ended up at Pho Viet Anh. Seriously, this was an amazing bowl of pho. They offer four different broths (traditional beef, plus chicken and vegetable)…I went with the fourth: Hot & Spicy Beef broth. This apparently originated in Central Vietnam and is made with pineapple, lemon grass, and hot chili. It was absolutely outstanding. I plan on lunch there tomorrow and we’ll have to see about the rest of the stay <g>. Yum. Seriously yum.

 

[N.B. It is 245am-I have been up for 21+ hours, hypothetically I have had more to drink in the last 24 (read 6) hours than I have in the last 6 months in the aggregate (admittedly, I am generally a teetotaler)....reader beware]

It was a slow day. Be it the storm (which did not actually hit Baltimore) or any other of possible variables, it was just a slow day in the book section. There were a few warm bodies and some actually bought books…but I am accustomed at this fair to having a lot of conversations…to be pretty steadily busy talking with book humans. There simply seemed to be *less*. I am hopeful that tomorrow will be better…we shall see. At the very least, two of my more favorite humans on earth are coming and it should be a good an interesting day.

The day improved radically in the evening… I made reservations some time ago for our annual pilgrimage to Salt. I was joined by Ernest Hilbert and his wife, Judith Dixon, Sunday Steinkirchner and Josh Mann, Cynthia Gibson, and Brian Cassidy. We started with drinks (the most popular appeared to be the Salted Pomegranate (patron silver, citronge, fresh lime) and the Johnny Deer (tanqueray gin, fresh honeydew and cucumber juice, touch of lime). The food started as follows:

1: Southwestern Corn Chowder (1): Poblano peppers, sweet potatoes, applewood bacon
2: Toro Tuna Tatar (2): Asian pears, sesame, green onions, sriracha, pomme frites
3: Steamed Prince Edward Island Mussels (1): Tomatos, garlic, basil, white wine, lemon
4: Chicken Fried Quail (1): Caramelized onion waffle stick, whole grain mustard gravy
5: Foie Graw & Kobe Beef Slider (2): with truffle aioli and red onion marmalade
6: Duck Fat French Fries (2): with a trio of Aioli (white truffle, malt, and chipotle)

Among the eight of us, we only ordered 3 entrees:

1: Coriander and Pepper Crusted Tuna (5, I think): Served with seaweed salad with spicy tuna pot sticker and ginger soy glaze (I can to tell you how good this is…Rare…cooked at the outside, cool in center. Simply outstanding.)

2: Duck Confit Manicotti (2): Truffled mushroom broth, shaved Pecorino

3: Grilled Cowboy Cut Rib-Eye Steak (1): Olive oil whipped potato, green beans, rosemary demi-glaze.

For desert we demolished:

1: Trio of Mini Ice Cream Cones (3): House-made Peanut Butter, Chocolate Cake, and  Cinnamon Butternut Squash scoops

2: Goat Cheese Donuts (3): Lavender infused honey, vanilla sea salt, coffee chip ice cream (good beyond words)

3: Cake n’ Shake (1): Daily selections of cake (lave cake, today), milkshake shot.

Truly, if you come to Baltimore and do not visit Salt, you are missing one of its greatest treasures.

We left Salt and headed back to the Hyatt where we switched to martinis and wine (though my nearly last was a Sandeman Vintage Port that was outstanding). When they finally closed (after a second, special last call), we retired to Judith’s room to “empty the minibar”. It was a long and wonderful night. A huge part of what makes this profession wonderful are those who make it all happen. I spent the evening with several of those I love best. The day may have been slow. The evening was outstanding. The one and only missing element was Suzanne, trapped in Portland doing good work for others but profoundly missed by this very tired and lonely husband.

Looking forward to seeing what tomorrow brings…

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